Ezgo clutch noise

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Ezgo clutch noise

This is a Yamaha G16a that I purchased for my grandparents to tool around on at our cottage in Northern Ontario. The guy I purchased it from assured me that it was in great shape and that both clutches had been completely replaced and it was tip top.

Anyways, my grandparents maybe got 10kms use of out it. Lots of noise and not very good performance. I replaced the secondary sliding sheave along with the secondary spring seat since they were worn to the metal and installed a performance torsion spring. The golf cart worked a lot better but still made a lot of noise when operating.

It was also dying on hills as if it wasn't getting enough fuel under load. Anyways, the cart is home now and I'm playing around with it trying to figure out what's going on.

I took off the dust cap off of the primary sliding sheave to see if there are any issues there and found that the rollers are completely flat-spotted and are in need of replacement.

I'm also wondering if the noise I'm getting is belt squeal from things being improperly adjusted. I'm a total newbie but do have some mechanical skills.

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Wondering if you could point me in the right direction so that I can get this thing running and driving great. YouTube - Golf Cart Noise 1. YouTube - Golf Cart Noise 2.

Today BGW. Sponsored Links. Just a note: Cart sounds completely fine when the belt is removed. The bad rollers will kill shifting, I'd fix that first there are various posts here about them. You only have about 9hp and if it does not shift right 9hp does not get to the ground. That also hurts shifting and can eventually wear holes in it. That makes a lot of noise but usually pretty obvious if they wear through. Is it lifted?

Not sure you need a spring if not, but don't know what spring it is either.

ezgo clutch noise

The noise could just be the rollers if different size they can unbalance the clutch, rattle, etc. Look at the top weight pic and note how close the ramp is to being off the side of the roller. You may need to replace them as well, check them and the pivot bolt for wear also.

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I hate when sellers are dishonest! Let's start with the primary clutch engine clutchyes you will need to replace the rollors and buy the looks of the wear, the pins also, I do not have to change the wieghts very often. When the weight gets past the flat spot on the rollor when clutch is fully engagedit will "lock in the closed position. Check both sheave's were the belt rides for extreme wear or not smooth.EZGO-rattling noise from clutch.

Hey there. My kart has been running great engine wise. But yesterday a rattle has started to come about. We took off the seat and had a look for something loose and found the heat shield was ready to fall off. Fixed that now it is sturdy and stable yet the noise is still present. Also noticed that when I take off from a dead stop it takes a while for the kart to get up to speed as if it is lagging.

Also noticed it will go uphill but it seems to struggle. Where as before it was great everywhere. Does anyone know what this annoying rattling noise could be? The kart is around an EZ go. Today BGW. Sponsored Links. Re: EZGO-rattling noise from clutch. Nobody knows what the noise could be?? Is my clutch screwed. Please help me. I don't want to keep running it if something happens to be loose in the clutch.

Fix Golf Cart Noises (Whining, Grinds, Beeps, Clicks, Buzzing)

I'm no expert by any means, but if something has broken in the clutch like the spring perhaps then yes it would be very sluggish due the spring pressure being much weaker. And it could possibly rattle. However I would think the only safe way of determining that is to take off the clutch or clutches and take apart and inspect.

Worse case scenario is your only out your time as it doesn't hurt to clean up the clutches every once in a while anyways. Thanks for the input. I found out what it was.EZGO txt clutch problem. My EZGO txt when put in drive makes a very loud chattering noise, I don't think the drive sheaves are closing to grip the belt, there is a black cover over the it, can this be removed to give access to the bolts to allow stripping the clutch to check for a broken spring or see what is wrong with ot?

Any advice will be great, thanks, RockinR Today BGW. Sponsored Links. Re: EZGO txt clutch problem. Originally Posted by rockinr My EZGO txt when put in drive makes a very loud chattering noise I don't think the drive sheaves are closing to grip the beltthere is a black cover over the it, can this be removed to give access to the bolts to allow stripping the clutch to check for a broken spring or see what is wrong with ot?

Clutches should never make noise.

ezgo clutch noise

The only noises I've ever heard from clutches are popping. Chattering noise is most likely your shifter not making it all the way into gear, and your gears are grinding. Or you may have a stripped hub. I've certainly not seen or done it all, but I buy some pretty jacked up golf carts and I've never heard noises like you describe from a clutch. My money is on its not shifted into gear good.

ezgo clutch noise

You mention in your pm that it does not appear that the clutches are moving correctly? If its the hub spinning, then as Stovebolt says, see if one of the nuts spins when trying to drive it.

If so its a new brake drum required. You say that the clutches do not seem to grip the belt. That suggests that the drive clutch is damaged and you can check this by removing the three bolts and popping the cover off.

It should be fairly obvious if the weights are broken or fallen off!

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If none of these are the answer then it may just be the gears in the axle have gone on Holiday LOL. To be honest, you don't usually get a warning noise when the drum splines go, it just shears them off instantly.

A grinding noise is usually not fully engaging the gears and a rattly noise is usually the front clutch has dropped some weights or rollers.The drive or primary clutch attaches to the engine crankshaft. At rest, the drive clutch faces sheaves are separated by the wide drive belt. The driven or secondary clutch bolts onto the input shaft of the differential. The driven clutch sheaves are spring loaded together and the belt, at rest, rides up at the outer edge.

The other sheave is fixed to either the crankshaft or the differential input shaft and it does not slide, it just spins. If the start up is jerky, or if there is poor speed transition from level ground to climbing a hill, or if the car has erratic fast then slow then fast again high end speed, bad golf cart clutches may be indicated.

These two golf cart clutches, or pulleys, must work together as a single unit and that requires both to be in good condition.

ezgo clutch noise

What follows is my best effort to describe the interaction of the clutches with the engine and the differential rear end to create a smooth transition from stop to top speed and back to stop again with all speeds in between.

The drive, or primary, clutch is found on the crankshaft of the engine. As the engine spins, internal flyweights cause one drive clutch sheave pulley half to slide in along its main shaft toward the other sheave, which is fixed to the engine crankshaft. As the engine speed changes, the flyweight action forces the drive belt to move up or down the clutch faces thus changing the pulling ratio of the clutch which affects the pulling power of the engine.

When the belt is down near the center shaft of the drive clutch the pulling ratio is about a advantage for the engine. The other half of this system is the driven, or secondary, clutch. At rest the driven clutch sheaves are spring loaded together, so the belt sits up at the outer edge of this clutch, NOT down toward the center shaft.

It works only when acted upon by the force of the drive belt. As the engine spins, thus forcing the belt to ride higher on the drive clutch, the belt, in turn, forces the driven clutch sheaves to separate, allowing the belt to ride closer to the center shaft of the driven unit. In other words, as the drive clutch sheaves come together the belt causes the driven clutch sheaves to separate.

This give and take between the golf cart clutches, via the belt action, is what gives the cart variable speeds…an automatic transmission, so to speak. As the drive belt forces the driven clutch sheaves to separate, the PULLING ratio of the engine changes from maximum when the belt is at the outer edge of the driven unit to minimum PULLING power, or top cruising speed when the sheaves are completely apart.

Picture this: As the engine spins faster, internal flyweights in the drive clutch cause the sliding sheave to move in toward the fixed sheave. This squeezes the drive belt forcing it to ride up the beveled faces of the drive clutch. The normally loose drive belt gets tighter and this forces the driven clutch sheaves to separate thus creating movement of the car.

The higher the belt rides on the drive clutch, the faster the car will go, until the top of the belt reaches the outer edge. Both golf cart clutches must have their sliding sheaves move in and out smoothly along their respective shafts.

If this transition is not smooth and seamless then trouble is at hand. If the car runs fine on level ground and then slows dramatically as it starts up a hill, comes to a near stop, and then suddenly begins to pull again, then a drive clutch rebuild or replacement might be indicated.This technology allows the user a smooth drive without having to worry too much about changing gears.

Every golf cart will have a clutch consisting of two parts namely the primary clutch and the secondary clutch. What are the common problems associated with the clutch system? How do you identify if the problem lies with the clutch and not with any other part of the golf cart? Well, let me elaborate by giving some examples of scenarios that could occur if there is any problem with the clutch system. Are you experiencing issues with the clutch not engaging especially during hill driving?

You might have found that as soon as you let go of the hill brake the clutch refuses to engage. This could be due to a battery that is not working or due to some issues with the clutch system itself. Fixing the battery will usually help you resolve the issue of your golf cart clutch not engaging. Sometimes a belt that does not have the correct tension and is loose may cause the clutch to not engage properly.

It might help to clean out any rust on the clutch system as this could also be the cause of this issue. Rectifying these problems could help resolve the clutch issue. If the clutch still refuses to engage, you might have to get it checked by a service center.

They will be able to identify the issue easily and help fix it. One of the common problems in a clutch system is the clutch slipping while switching from the neutral gear. The problem might be much more when more people are seated in the cart as the clutch would refuse to engage because of the added weight. This could be because the clutch is slipping from its designated position. Sometimes you might want to remove or replace the clutch after it has been used for quite a long time.

You just have to remove the oleoresins in the center and the clutch will come out very easily. If none of these techniques work, you can try cutting some relief on the clutch.

This might loosen up the tight parts and help you remove it without damaging the main segment. Using a chisel to cut out the relief could be a good idea.Electric E-Z-Go Golf Carts are becoming more popular every day and have become the main source of transportation for many people. A number of sticky issues may be resolved with a bit of investigation. Step 1 Troubleshoot a sticky accelerator by turning the engine on and listening for a small clicking sound.

If your golf cart is running without you pushing on the accelerator, the solenoid may be sticking into an on position. The clicking noise should only occur once the accelerator is pressed. This is a common problem with E-Z-Go golf carts and can cause overheating. Have the solenoid replaced by a qualified mechanic. Step 2 Notice if you are losing power when you drive up inclines. If so, you may need to replace or tighten a battery cable connection. Examine the wiper speed switch for burned-out contacts.

Replace any old, frayed or singed connections. Step 3 Check your tire pressure to be sure it is at the proper level. E-Z-Go electric carts with low tire pressure will experience an increased load on the batteries which will slow you down and decrease the distance you can drive before recharging.

Inflate tires to 18 to 22 PSI. Step 4 Test your battery, if you notice slowing, to see if it has a proper charge. Most batteries last five years, but some may be good for twice that long it properly maintained. If the battery is still good, examine the water level—if it is too low it can make the cart lose power. Step 5 Check the heavy wiring in the engine if you are experiencing melting of your wires or cables.

Examine any loose connections and tighten them. Clean off any corrosion on your battery cables or end wires as this can also cause resistance and heat buildup.

We use it at the lake only. Had it for 3 summers — literally very little maintence issues. Today my daughter was driving it at the lake and it started to just slow down and just died. It will not turn over or attempt to engage the motor when I step on the gas pedal.

My first gut instinct tells me I have a bad coil or Key switch where the key goes in. If someone else has any idea please comment on their problem. I have a E-Z Go golf cart year 2 clyle that is getting extreely hot. What could be causing this problem? My EZGO cart motor turns but the wheels dont turn, and there is a sound like something is not connected under the rear wheels. Easy Go Electric What causes the high pitch whine noise when I press on the go pedal? Is it an easy fix?


If you put it in reverse the cart will run fine. It almost feel like the gears are slipping. Any thoughts? I have a ez go electric cart. When going forward, I press the pedal and it drives slow. If I push the switch to reverse and then back to forward, it will take off and drive at full speed. Once I stop again and restart it drives slow again, until I put it in reverse and back to forward.Forum Home.

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Forums New posts Search forums. What's new New posts. Search titles only. Search Advanced search…. Log in. JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. Thread starter ribber Start date Jul 22, My first guess would be the bearings going out. Usually if a differential is low on oil it will whine first. Also one thought if it has brakes on the rear end it could be one has locked up or is draging. I believe the rear end uses the engine oil for lubrication.

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I have seen carts at one of the repair shops I frequented where the cart was ridden hard in a field and a chunk was taken out of the rear diff. Oil drained out and the motor was burned up. Does it make the noise when the cart is up in the air and the wheels are off? Sounds like it could be a couple of things. Rear end or wheel hub stripped. Go to www.

Hands down the best forum on the web for golf carts. Those guys will help you with your problems. Search the forums first before asking. However I bet you it's the wheel hubs.

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If it is it's an easy fix. Take the tire off, remove the axle nut, remove the hub and install a new one. The rear end does have oil. The only way to check it is to drop the pan or back the drain plug out. If you drop thepan before you drain it Becareful not to spill it. To replace it fill the pan and bolt it back on.


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